CLIMBING ON MT. SINAI / EGYPT

Why is a secular person like me trekking on the mythological Mt. Sinai (Arabic: Gebel Musa, 2,285 m) in October 1985, the Moses mountain being situated in the heart of a mountainous desert on the peninsula with the same name? Well, I really have to strain my brain and memory, as no diary has been written by me during this self-organized 4-week-journey through all Egypt long time ago. At least the analog photos do still exist and must serve as a quite triggering and facilitating guide.

In the 80s of the last century travelling was much more exciting and unpredictable than today. All I did in preparation for my journey to Egypt was booking a flight-ticket to Cairo, reading a little bit in advance and taking with me a travel-guide for orientation which led me reliably to the most important sites in the country. I never had a problem to find accomodation whereever, just looking and asking while speaking sometimes simply with hands and feet. I did not speak Arabic, and in Egypt not everybody spoke English especially in the more rural areas.

“Many stone inscriptions have been found in Southern Sinai, dating from the 15th century B.C. They are written in pictograms, signs representing the initial consonants of words whose meaning had been previously conveyed by a picture – a crucial stage between pictorial representation and phonetic writing. Pictograms are generally hieroglyphics but these read as Canaanite not Egyptian. So the Canaanite alphabet was the result of a conscious creative act.”

Jean Starcky / Pierre Bordreuil, 1975, “L’Invention de l’alphabet”

I reached the Sinai with the bus going from Cairo to Suez, there I took a shared taxi, an old Peugeot, being driven with great pride by a local Bedouin. The driver stopped from time to time in the Sinai desert where Bedouins settled in tents for a small talk or just waving his right hand. The left hand may not be used for greeting or eating subject to reasons I do not like to explain in detail. The only thing I can advise in this regard to have always paper tissues with you as toilet paper quite often was not available, instead just a bottle of water. The shared taxi brought me finally completely secure to the centre of Sinai and the Greek Orthodox St. Catherines Monastery (see photo hereunder).

The monastery is a quite busy place in the middle of the desert at the mouth of a gorge being situated at the foot of Mt. Sinai as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The building is one of the oldest working Christian monasteries in the world and was built between 548 and 565. The monastery provides also the oldest continually operating library in the world. The name originates to antique tradition telling the history of Catherine of Alexandria, a Christian martyr, sentenced to death on the breaking wheel. When this failed to kill her, she was beheaded. The Christian mythology says that angels took her remains afterwards to Mt. Sinai where monks from the Sinai Monastery found her remains around the year 800. So a lot of Christian pilgrims do visit this place, and the monastery offers accomodation to them and everybody else who decides to be here and/or climb on Mt. Sinai like Moses long time ago.

So being here in a spectacular desert scenery with all these old stories and expectations implies a quite special experience. As far as I can remember I spent two nights at the monastery and one very early morning at around 4 a.m. when all was still completely dark and mysterious, I and all the others staying there (around 40 persons) started climbing on Mt. Sinai. At that time it is cool and fine in the desert, so marching to the top required only around 2.5 hours on a not too difficult path. Shortly before sunrise we reached the top of Mt. Sinai, at that moment all surrounding other mountains were immersed in a surreal blue and green (see photo above and hereunder). There was a big group of pilgrims from Austria who after singing a Christian song chanted with great pathos the hymn of their homeland Tyrole. This made it even more irreal because in the background Egyptian merchants were loudly shouting: “Chai. Hot tea.” And you would normally not expect so much life early in the morning in a desert at Alpine heights. So no, I have really not found any kind of enlightenment on top of Mt. Sinai but the magical mountainous scenery was really worth a visit. The desert is a very puristic place but risky, it can clean your mind or kill you. A lot of Europeans have a romantic view on it as visualized in films like Lawrence of Arabia. Every Bedouin prefers to stay in an oasis with water and green as a simple question of survival. The sun has an incredible drying strength and heat even in October, so moving down Mt. Sinai in the early morning for nearly 2 hours was indeed less pleasant and instead arousing a thirst.

The Sinai desert allows a lot of discoveries like canyons of all colour, prehistoric temples or the visit of an old oasis. After my visit of Mt. Sinai I spent some time at the Red Sea on the other hand, first in the quite touristic Sharm El-Sheikh and afterwards in the more Hippie-like Dahab with simple straw huts and hosted by Bedouins at the beach. There in Dahab life was easy and relaxed those days, a real welcomed and nice memory to this special and amazing land called Sinai.

Next Egyptian tour: Alexandria (end of August)

Report on Abu Simbel: https://transmutation.me/2018/06/13/oriental-spotlights/

 

linked to:   Restless Jo’s Monday Walks

 

 

ORIENTAL SPOTLIGHTS

Well, I really had to search my old Chinese wedding chest for proofs concerning a 4 week trip of all Egypt in the 80s of the last century. Fortunately all photos still existing after more than 30 years of storage and now somehow also antique. So welcome back to the world of simplest analog photography which I find indeed more touching than all these bits and bytes of today. It is real paper and memory to be felt, rather oldfashioned these days I know.

Abu Simbel site in Southern-Egypt by mid of October 1985
Small temple of Nefertari, 13th century BC

The Oriental world has played an important part in my life, and this trip to Egypt in 1985 was my first encounter with this fascinating cosmos. The visit of Abu Simbel in the very Southern part of Egypt near the Sudanese border was truly a real highlight in this regard because the archeological site is a quite remote place in the Nubian desert at the shores of Lake Nasser. To visit the location was quite easy while diverse agencies in the big city of Aswan offer daily trips to Abu Simbel.

We were leaving Aswan at around 4 a.m. very early (due to the high temperatures) and driving with some kind of jeep or SUV first on a road later on a good sandy piste. Camel caravans from Sudan passed our way on their way to the camel markets of Luxor and/or Cairo, food for the many Egyptians living in the valley of the Nile. The trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel takes about 3 hours, so we arrived shortly before the sun was rising above Lake Nasser. The sun is still very strong and dazzling even in October, so the temperatures increase rapidly.

With the first sunrays of the day I was able to make some photos of this spectacular place constructed by the ancient Pharaonic kingdom of Egyot. At this place in the wide desert you already get a good feeling of vast Africa stretching further thousands of miles to the South.

Zoomorphic Arabic calligraphy by Mohammed Negm, 2009
reflecting his full name in the form of an eagle. (1) (2)

linked to:   Frank’s Tuesday Photo Challenge – Age

(1)  This graphic being published under the GNU Free Documentation License.
(2)  The national emblem of Egypt is Saladin’s famous eagle – also on its flag.